Wednesday, August 30, 2006

The Great Indian Train Journey

Sunshine's posts about her experiences with the buses and some conversations on cricforum with my friends made me reminisce about my favorite mode of travel. The train.

Most of my journeys on the train were made as a kid. Before our travel time became too precious to waste on a train journey, the train was my family's modus travellandi. :). Be it Delhi, or Agartala, no place was too far for a train journey. Happening to be a kid that loved to travel and see new places, I used to adore our journeys on the train. The majority of my travels used to be with my mom, or patti as I escorted them on their journeys from Madras to Delhi, Bombay, Bangalore, Mysore and all over the south.

What is it about the train journeys that seemed so magical to me?

Was it the food, the bunk beds in the 3rd tier and 2nd class AC, the chai and coffee wallas who served up this nectar that had you smacking your lips, the other travelers who hailed from all parts of India and spoke with strange accents or languages? Or could it be the joy of being able to wander about the train compartments knowing that you were ambling towards your destination? The possibility of being able to observe people from all walks of life on the train getting from pt A to B?

The poor bachelors used to be at the beck and call of all, old and young to get the most menial tasks done. Whether it was getting suitcases out of the storage places, or running out onto the platform to get everybody's water bottles filled.

Was it being able to watch other people at work in the paddy fields or on their way to and from office as you were on holiday? Perhaps it was the feeling of being so fast that you could outrun any car or bus on the road, the telephone and power poles rushing past you as the train rocked you to sleep.

Then again maybe it was those wondrous Western Ghat tunnels that peppered the tracks and interrupted the breathtaking views afforded to a nature starved city boy.

Or could it be the hawkers that went up and down the trains selling everything from masal-wadais to spinning tops. On the other hand, nothing could beat the feeling of achievement that I felt when I made it across those spooky joints that connected the train compartments from one corner of the train to another.

How about the feeling of awe and fear that I felt when the train made those huge booming sounds as it passed over the rushing waters of the Godavris, the Narmada, Krishna and other rivers that stretched as far as the eye could see!

Train trips were also a time to read new books and get away from the grind of doing homework or other mundane things that seemed to become so tedious to a small kid. It was a time to see the scripts of the posters on the walls change from Tamil, to Telugu, to Kannada, Devanagri and many others that I could not name. A time when your ticket collector would start off speaking Hindi and before you knew it would ask you for your ticket in Bhojpuri.

Did I mention the food? Why did everything taste so much better on the train? The Frootis tasted fruitier, the bondas and bhajjis tasted more delicious, the masal-wadas spicier, the pongal warmer, the chutney - well chutnier than any food at home or hotel ever could aspire to. I remember waiting desperately for our home-cooked food to run out, so I could could gorge on the greasy train food served in those aluminum foil tiffin boxes. I felt so important when I got to order the kind of food that I wanted.

However nothing could beat the feeling of getting to your destination often greeted by the people you love as they come to collect you from the belly of the metal beast that brought you to them.

Why did I love train journeys so much? Maybe it's time I found out again.

17 comments:

Viky said...

Oh! Long distance "train"er? Hi-5!!

How could you forget the eunuchs who came CLAP-CLAP "Arre dena, hero!!!"

Sumithra said...

Nice post. Yeah, train is the best modus travellandi :-) You can relax and enjoy your travel, eat all the time, walk around, get to talk to poeple..

(BTW, I was going to start my next blog with "Bharath's comment about 'swingin in' had me thinking about... " - Imagine my surprise when I saw yours starting with my blogger name! :D)

Bharath Hemachandran said...

@viky - :) That's your fav part of the trains? I don't remember the times that I traveled in the bombay local trains. I was too young for that.

@sunshine - You know... great minds and all :)

@rams - The more the merrier rams... the more the merrier.

Anonymous said...

Hmm, the best part, i think, is the sound it makes:p..chajak chajak..chajak chajak..:D..i love it:)..n also the way you tend to wake up realllly early yknow? N everything's still dark..yknw they dont make trains like that here!!!! Honest!! I miss indian trains :D

Bharath Hemachandran said...

Yup. I like the train sounds as well. but always found that I got tired of them or became oblivious to them after a bit. The sound I can never forget though is when the trains went over the bridges!

Cloudy said...

LOL @ Modus travellandi! Will have to steal this phrase sometime :)
And I just loved the bit where you say the signboards change languages...

Bharath Hemachandran said...

Thankoo sunshine!

Anonymous said...

"However nothing could beat the feeling of getting to your destination often greeted by the people you love as they come to collect you from the belly of the metal beast that brought you to them"

Really Nice !!!!!

Viky said...

Not my fave...but unforgettable, yes!!! My fave was taking those idli-dosa wrapped in plantain leaves, through the windows of the bogie. And curling up in the upper berth, watching what goes on beneath.

Pratik said...

No doubt about it : travelling in Indian trains rocks!! I haven't really travelled much in the reserved trains like you have. But I have travelled quite a bit on the first-come-first-serve compartments. I make sure I travel by those every time I go to India; it's one hell of an experience. I didn't really read books on trains; my favorites were the latest copy of Sportstar or Tinkle (they should deliver to the US - I will be the first to subscribe!! You guys probably think I'm such a kid. Well ... I am!!)

People drop bloody handkerchiefs to 'call' their seats - an Indian exclusive! And the food on trains is hard to resist, even after considering the state of hygiene in India (or the lack of it that is). And I know that on Gujarat railways stations, the flavored milk (kesar, malai, etc.) of each respective local dairy is a must-buy.

I distinctly recall the train passing over the Narmada River. There is some religious superstition that you should throw coins in to the river, kind of similar to a wishing well type funda. There's a hidden treasure, consisting of mostly chillad, under that railway bridge - take my word for it!

Balaji said...

:-)

I also love trains...

Anonymous said...

Lol@ handkerchief reservation:p..never travelled that way though:)..dont much care for the sound it makes on the bridges..feels like everything's gonna go crashing down!

Anonymous said...

Lol@ handkerchief reservation:p..never travelled that way though:)..dont much care for the sound it makes on the bridges..feels like everything's gonna go crashing down!hing down!

Anonymous said...

Yikes! Dunno how that happened. Littering your blog with comments:p.
@cure for ennui: you're the first person i've met (using the term loosely) who calls their sibling brat!!! Thot i was the only one :(
So much for feeling unique huh? ;)

Pratik said...

I've heard about the Mumbai trains. Apparently, you never have to get on or off the train. The horde of people will just push you in or out of the train ... sometimes even if you don't want to!

Anonymous said...

@cfe: I'm a TCP regular..bored one day..browsing the net..found TCP..left a comment and then ended up going back everyday:D..was anonymous at first but they insisted I reveal myself so I self-titled myself Revealed :D..that's the history in a nutshell:p..

Anonymous said...

Wow, u really do like trains, bro :D have to admit there's something exciting about travelling in trains, tho, something indefinable (at least at 9.00 at night) that flying doesn't quite manage to have despite all the glamour attached to it. Still, if you're travelling in a compartment filled with crying babies at 2.00 am, it tends to put you out :D. But that only happened once, and I love trains better than planes :D - Sis